On my way … Day 13 … Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

Camino Marker

Friday, May 25, 2018 … 21 kms … 13 miles, Heavy rain and cold 

Summary of the day and thoughts: 

Today is the day, our first walk in the Meseta. The Meseta is the middle part of the Camino. The mental section between the cities of Burgos and Leon. This is the region with long flat stretches, where you can see where you are going and feel like you are never arriving. This portion of the Camino provides an abundance of space and solitude but also a battle of loneliness, boredom, uncertainty and hundreds of other emotions.  

Because of these thoughts about the Meseta, many pilgrims take a bus from Burgos to Leon and miss the Meseta. I personally loved the Meseta and everything about it. It wasn’t easy but I wouldn’t miss it and I would do it all over again. The lessons are amazing! Some of my most favorite days happened during this section. 

We lost another family member today, Marcia, Marcia, Marcia is taking a rest day and waiting on her friends. When we woke to start the day, Marcia was awake as well and walked us outside to say our goodbyes. We hope to catch up and see her in Santiago.  

Burgos

O Lord my God, prepare my spirit so that, through the intercession of the Apostle James, it may be open to your word, receive it, and put it into practice. Amen 

Leaving Burgos 

As we said goodbye to Marcia, the 5 amigos made their way down the sidewalk. That’s right we are down to 5.  

It was cloudy and calling for rain, we were hoping it wouldn’t start any time soon. It was chilly too, so we definitely didn’t want the cold rain. We dressed appropriately. I had layered up. My down jacket was under my rain jacket.

As we walked by the Cathedral, we admired the architecture one last time and took a few more shots. It was early and there weren’t a lot of pilgrims or people around which made it nice.  

Again, the big cities are not fun to get into or get out of. We followed the markers and weaved our way around the city streets, cars and people. We distracted ourselves with the markets, the buildings and the pilgrim statue that looked like Jesus. 

 The rain started to fall even before we got out of town. Dang it, that was quick. We quickly covered up and kept walking.  

The rain was coming down so hard the only thing you could do is to keep your head down and keep walking. It was a quiet morning. We walked at a faster pace, not only because of the rain but also because we are now a smaller group. Every once in a while, someone would start to sing. I think to get our minds off being wet and cold. 

Tardajos 

As we arrived into Tardajos, we knew we wanted to get out of the pouring rain. We had to look up now to look for a café and to watch for cars. The cold rain was hitting our faces and the wind was blowing.  

We then saw the best thing up ahead! Not only a café, but a patio covered with sides and a heater. We made our way to the café and it was packed. Standing room only. Every pilgrim was wanting to be next to the heater and because of the rain everyone was staying a little longer. We were in no hurry because today was a shorter day only 20 kms and we had just completed 10 kms. Halfway there! 

It was 11am, perfect time for an early lunch and to sit out of the rain. We made our way to a table and sat down; it was tight. The tables were so close together. We made new friends. As we were eating, we met George and George from Columbia. They were fun. I felt like I had met the Odd Couple. Their names were actually Jorge, but they told everyone to call them George. Yes, both of them were named Jorge!

The rain started to let up and we were finished eating so we decided we better hit the road. More pilgrims were arriving and needed a seat, so we did the dance to get out of the dining area.  

As soon as we crossed the road the rain started to fall again. Ugh! 

Ermita 

Just as my spirit was feeling depleted, we turned the corner and there sat a little Chapel. It was amazing. I said, “we have to go in.” 

As we entered the chapel, a little nun greeted us. She had “Ave Maria” playing and it was so beautiful. You felt like you just entered into another world. A little sanctuary.  She came up to each of us and placed a miraculous medal on a little string around our neck and she said, “may Our Lady guide you to Santiago and may you stay safe on your pilgrimage!”  

I started to cry tears of joy and went and sat down for some quiet time. It was perfect. 

Final steps into Hornillos del Camino 

The rain was still falling as we stepped out of the chapel and made our way down the road. It was an easy day but just a wet one. 

Minh was feeling a little home sick today. Earlier we read in the guide book that there was a Korean restaurant in our town tonight. So, we quietly planned to surprise him and take him to dinner there. We were all excited about this.  

The rain started to let up which was a relief. We were cold and wet. We didn’t have far to go, but we decided we better put on some dry socks.  

Our Hostel: El Alfar de Hornillos, 20 beds, 10 Euros 

When we arrived at the hostel, the first thing we did was take our wet shoes off. Most hostels require you to do this before you enter. It helps keep everything clean. Today, not only did we remove our shoes but we stuck newspapers in them to help them dry overnight. 

A little shoe tip for the Camino: We found that it is better to go with non-waterproof shoes than to go with waterproof shoes. Why, you ask?  You will have less gear and less weight. Non-waterproof shoes will dry overnight and are a lighter shoe and all you need is a poncho. If you want to do waterproof shoes, you will need to purchase rain pants and gaiters as well. So, everything will stay dry. If you use a poncho with waterproof shoes your feet will get wet. Rain will get inside the shoes and these shoes will not dry quickly overnight.  All other shoes will dry overnight with newspaper in them. ~ Cale Maddox, Camino Guide. 

After we showered and did our laundry, we had enough time to have a little siesta and quiet time. It was nice. The Hostel was small. It was an old house. Our room only had 6 beds. It was us and one other lady from the states, we met Kelly tonight. 

It had a nice little kitchen and a sitting room. We sat down there and played cards and I had some Vino with some fellow pilgrims staying at the hostel. Again, enjoying the companionship of my fellow pilgrims! When it was time to eat, we asked the hostel owner about the restaurant and we were so disappointed to hear that it no longer was there. It was now an Irish restaurant. 

We told Minh what we had planned and he was so happy to know that we tried. We needed to eat so we all agreed, let’s go to the Irish restaurant. What a nice surprise when we arrived at the restaurant, they had live Celtic music. It was a fun night out on the Camino! 

My journal: 

Friday, May 25th, 21 kms…13 miles, Heavy rain and cold 

We had another family member leave us today, Marcia, Marcia, Marcia. We are down to 5. The 5 amigos. 

We had an amazing day but a very wet day. We were soaked and we were cold. Thank God it was a short day.  

New internal struggle today, letting go of the past. During the quiet times my thoughts would wander and I would start to think about my cross. I would say the mantra, Jesus I trust in you. And then remind myself to stop and let it go. Stop letting the thoughts come into my head. These thoughts are not of God.  

Dear Lord, please take these thoughts. St. Michael pray for me! 

It was placed on my heart, “stay on your path, don’t be distracted by these feelings.” 

I am carrying this cross one last time and leaving it at the Iron Cross and then it will be gone. Laying it down at the foot of the cross. Jesus, I trust in you! 

I am seeing the beauty all around me and within me. I received two beautiful compliments by some fellow pilgrims. Little do they know how much it meant to me. Given to me, just when I needed to hear them.  

Something so easy, that each of us can do. Be kind to others, how simple is that. I always try to give compliments to people because you never know what someone is carrying in their heart.  

O Lord my God, prepare my spirit so that, through the intercession of the Apostle James, it may be open to your word, receive it, and put it into practice. Amen 


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